Considering Morocco

*To see older posts on our time in Madrid, and back briefly in the States, go to the following link:
http://www.notesfromspain-margot.blogspot.com/

Warning: If you all ready know all about Morocco, or you are not all that interested in Morocco, you may want to skip this blog. This is my trying-to-figure-out-what-we-are-about-to-get-into blog.


We have been back in Madrid for just a bit over a week. So, it seems odd to be leaving already. But the girls’ school has a short break the 23^rd to the 27^th and then nothing till late April. So, to make the most of our time in Europe, we are off to Marrakesh (or Marrakech) tomorrow.

It would be hard to ignore the fact that most of the countries on this map of North Africa and the Near East are in a state of mild to major political turmoil. There have been demonstrations in Morroco, including Marrakesh, but all in all things have been stable and the state department considers travel safe there.

Well, as safe as it ever is. Travel in Morroco is not recommended for women alone, nor for openly gay couples. You also probably want to pay someone from Morroco to drive you about. Driving tips on the web  include – the right of way is based on the size of vehicles, bigger ones have the right; driving regulations are not effective unless police are visible; and keep your speed down so as to minimize the effect of accidents.  Okay, so we expect to do a bit of walking in Marrakesh.

Before I started studying up on Morocco 24 hours ago - my images of the country were mainly derived from the movie “Casablanca” from 1943:

 And the lyrics from “Marrakesh” by  Crosby Stills and Nash. When was that? 1970?

I have also known that Morocco has some fabulous dishes starring cous-cous, and that they make wonderful lamps.

Also many exotic and lovely things out of fabric, including clothes –

 mostly of the sort that I would admire and long for but felt were reserved for those a little more hip than me to wear.

But the prices are low there and I am told it can be great fun to bargain. So, I am brushing up on my French and we are taking a couple of empty suitcases, just in case.

Let’s see, I also knew that Morocco was occupied by the French in the early part of the 20^th century (And, honest, not just because you could figure it out from Casablanca). They had been hanging out there and throwing their weight around for some time, but the official occupation (protectorate the French like to call it) was only from 1912 to 1956. Long enough for their language to take hold. Most Moroccans speak Arabic and French. Many speak a Berber dialect as well. The Berbers are the people who were there for many 1,000s of years before the Muslims came along in about 600 ad. 

By 1950 the French had become pretty unpopular amongst many Moroccans, what with educating only the upper class children and then mainly about France, and taking the most prime real estate for themselves, the usual colonialist mistakes, but their fatal move was to exile the popular Sultan,  Mohammed V, whose family has ruled Morocco continuously since 1666.

 He had begun to press for nationalism so the French replaced him with their own lackey, Mohammed Ben Aarafa.

That united the indiginous Berbers and the Nationalists and pretty soon the French were out and the people were welcoming back good old Mohammed V.

Here are some things I definitely did not know: Morocco is the second most populous Muslim nation, just behind Egypt. It is also second in non-oil producing Muslim nations in the size of its GDP. Its main industries are tourism, agriculture and export of phosphorus.  

Okay, so maybe some smarties out there all ready knew that stuff, but what about this? Morocco was one of the first nations to recognize the fledgling United States.  The treaty signed by the Sultan Mohammed III in 1777,

extended his protection to our vessels in and about Moroccan ports. It is the longest standing, unbroken treaty of friendship in the history of the United States!! Which fact I will certainly refer to should we be accosted by wrong-minded anti-American sorts. The treaty was especially welcome as it offered some protection against the Barbary pirates who were at the height of their powers.



Here are the British, fighting the fearsome pirates.

 The Barbary pirates were from, naturally, the Barbary coast, that is the northern coast of Africa. They were mainly after slaves for the North Africa and Middle East markets, and they particularly wanted Chistrians. It seems that, what with the crusades and all, enslaving Christians was not considered an obstacle to entering heaven. 

Here is the fate that awaited many of the men who were captured.

But back to the present. The current King of Morocco is Muhammed VI.

Muhammed VI, with wife, Princess Llala Salma

the grandson of the Muhammed the V. His father, King Hassan II, was not so well liked as his father. While Muhammed the V put a constitutional monarchy in place, Hassan tweaked the laws to give the monarchy sweeping powers, even going so far as dissolving parliment in 1967. During the 60's, 70's and 80's dissidents regularly were jailed, executed or "dissapeared". However, some improvement began to take place during the end of his regime and Muhammed the VI has vowed to continue with reforms. Women, for example, have more rights in Morocco than most Muslim countries. But change has been slow, the king still has the right to dissolve parliment, and the poverty rate continues to be quite high, and the tumoil among the Islamic countries has brought the people's discontent to the forefront.

As of the posting of this blog, demonstrations are planned for this weekend in much of Morocco, but the State Department considers travel there to be safe.

So, next post should be from Marrakesh. Hopefully not barricaded in our hotel rooms!

*To see previous posts go to the following link: http://www.notesfromspain-margot.blogspot.com/

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Graffiti Lover's Corner, I

Graffiti Lover's Corner

Madrid turns out to be a hot spot for graffiti artists. My plan is to post some images of their work each week.

Here we have a series of security doors. The Spaniards are big on fences, gates and such things, and the security doors offer many canvases to the graffiti artists. My apologies to anyone who really knows how to read Spanish. I don't know if there are obscenities on this or not.

The one above I am reasonably sure was not an authorized piece. But what about this one. It is not always easy to tell:

The one below, I am pretty sure was commissioned for a night club.

And this one is definately a bit of advertising:

That is all for now. Hasta Luego!

margotkimball@gmail.com

Hello, Again, Madrid

Well, it all started Saturday morning at 11:00 in the Avis parking lot where we took our 4 cartloads of suitcases. While we were loading the car a couple of men walked by and gave us a yell, telling us to be more careful as our doors were scraping the car next to us. What they should have yelled was '"Hey, be more carful, cuz we are stealing the lady's handbag!" But I guess that would not have worked so well in their favor.

We did not notice the loss till we were almost ready to go. Too late to do more than file a police report. The police that I have seen here seem surprisingly informal and sociable. Like a friendly group of high school kids  monitoring the playground. I rather enjoy them, but Adele, who is more safety conscious than me, does not find them reassuring. Matt points out, in their defense, that over here the police are not in such danger of being shot at as they are in the States, so, perhaps they can afford to be relaxed. Here is my rendition, as fish, of the three we dealt with at the airport. Those are tooth picks in their mouths. I guess they were feeling the effects of Spain's new antismoking laws.

If you are surprised to see me rendering them as fish (hmmm... kinda hard to tell in this drawing that they are fish and not just green people without noses or necks) you might want to take a look at my last post - Margot B. Fish's autobiography.

After filling out a police report for the lost passports (three in my bag), and putting freezes on our bank accounts, we packed up the car. With all the bags there was barely room for both girls, and having lost my purse with its contents of books and art supplies, I was feeling a little poorer and opted to go home by the metro rather than a cab. Actually, I was very happy to get back to the Madrid metro.

Spring comes very early in Spain. When we left in November it was much colder. People were not even passing the time at the tables outside of cafes - a rare state of affairs here. But here was the scene outside our apartment when I arrived:

I really had been enjoying that New England winter with tons of snow and the beautiful icicles.  

The house we rented in Concord

But, I cannot lie. This is nice. Here is my alter ego, Margot B. Fish, admiring the view from our apartment:

However, my object is not to evoke envy in my family and friends left in the cold. So, lest you cast the evil eye on me, consider that I am still unpacking. Now for the 6th time since August.

This drawing is from my "Life Drawings" collection (see last post) and was for our packing of our house in August, but it works just as well for the other many packs and unpacks.

Comments? Questions? Elaborations? Write to me at margotkimball@gmail.com

My Cartoon Autobiography - as a fish

Sorry, the link here has not been working for people. I will get up one the works, or just publish the whole thing on the blog.
Before I get to my first back-to-Spain blog, I would like to introduce to you my alter ego - Margot B. Fish. She has been swimming around in me forever, mainly unseen. Something about approaching my 50th birthday (February 25th, email me for my home address so that you can send lots of presents!) has caused her to reveal herself. So here's her first book.

50 years of

Life Drawings

To see the book, click on the link below:

Life Drawings 

As always, I welcome comments, either on the blog, or email me at margotkimball@gmail.com

See you later, Concord!

Finally! Last Friday we had all our documents assembled and took them to the Spanish Consulate. Yesterday they called to say that they have approved our work and residency permits. We have booked a flight back to Madrid for Friday. The amount of red tape and the number of hoops to be jumped through has been incredible. Matched only, I am told, by the bureaucratic nightmare that those trying to move to the States must go through.

I did not think to take a photo of all the documents that we (Matt really) had to procure and submit, but here is a rendering of the four folders with contents of one:

Each of the four folders (one for each member of the family going to Spain) contained the following:

FBI clearances
Marriage Certificate
Application forms, double sided
Supplementary application forms
Medical Certificates
All of the above had to be officially translated and apostilled  by at approved notary public

A money order
passports
extra passport photos
Aproval of work and residency permits
 Printouts of the email confirming the appointment at the Consulate
Photocopies of Drivers' liscense, if applicable

Each one of these documents in each file had to have a photocopy accompanying it.


SO, how do I FEEL about this next move?

Excited to be returning to Spain. To the apartment with the wonderful view, to exploring the still new city, to my new friends, to learning a new language.

Sad, to be leaving family and old friends, and a house that has become quite comfortable and a country where I speak and comprehend just fine.

The above two states superimposed look like this. Hmmm. Don't really know what I feel. Do I feel anything?


However, my feelings about needing to PACK and get out of this house by Friday afternoon are completely unequivocal.

                                                                       I am terrified.

But is does not seem right to leave without posting just one blog on what a delightful snowy New England winter this has been. As bothersome as all the moves are, I am very glad to have been able to be here.

We were not so sure about this house when we first got here. But we have become quite comfortable and have especially enjoyed the fireplace and the wood stove.

Here is Iris, helping to get firewood in.

We managed to visit my brother and family in Vermont over the holidays. They are staying in an apartment in this big old barn.

Here we all are inside:

It was too small for us all to sleep there, so we also stayed in the barn of this old farm house in the nearby town of Chelsea:

The apartment had a wonderful collection of old books and lovely, soft light in the morning. Here Iris is still sleeping:

I can't possibly include or acknowledge all the wonderful friends and family who have made our stay back here so delightful. My nieces Franny and Caroline here with Iris and Adele with gingerbread houses must represent them all.





But with 24 hours to go, I have got to stop procrastinating by working on this blog!

Back to the ever lurking army of roller bags:

Good by, Concord! Hola, Madrid!

Open House

^{Purpose of: To bid us Bon Voyage (Again!)}

 ^{and to make an appearance in “Margot’s Memory of 50” video.} 

^{and to see my collection of 50 images of "My life as a Fish". Here is a preview:}

If you have not received an invitation:

If you are following this blog and you are a friend of ours, or a friend of a friend, or you could be a friend and you are not a creepy stalker, AND you would like to come – send me an email: margotkimball@gmail.com ,and I will send you the time and place.

What is this “Margot’s Memory” video?

I have a terrible memory, which is probably why I feel compelled to document the events of my life. Please be prepared to appear in front of the camera to at least say who you are. You can also take a couple of minutes to tell a story, make a statement, demonstrate a skill, whatever. If you would like a topic, suggestions are:

How I know Margot

Something Margot may have forgotten (maybe wanted to forget)

Advice for turning 50– best given by someone over 50.

Are kids invited?

Yes. But if possible, please come towards 1:00 rather than the end. We will be able to absorb more energy then. I would love have kids on the video.

What should I bring?

No need to bring anything, except maybe what you plan to do in front of the camera . There will be food.

Are you really going back to Spain?

Our return to Concord MAY be fast drawing to a close. IF the paperwork is all accepted by the Spanish Consulate, AND they grant us an audience with alacrity, we will return to Madrid by the 7^th of February. It could all take a few weeks longer than that.

Questions?
Send me an email: margotkimball@gmail.com